Cleveland, once called the mistake on the lake, is on the cusp of cool

I am sitting on the deck of a once-derelict building that is now the city's trendiest microbrewery, watching the sun set over old smokestacks, the arches of early 20th century bridges and a river that once burned, and I am thinking that something intriguing is happening in Cleveland. The city is getting, uh, cool. Cleveland? Yes, Cleveland. 

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